Fiordland -wow

After my last rather grumpy post I thought that I should sing the praises of a belated ‘Indian summer’ that we are now enjoying. The last five days have been perfect and, as icing on the cake, we are still in Fiordland which has meant it has been great for hiking through the mountains and enjoying the stunning scenery in this part of the World.

We started off at sea level with a walk along part of the South Coast Track on the south east coast of Fiordland. It was a diverse landscape ranging from; sandy beach to egg like rock beach to drowned forest beach. Whenever we stopped the sandflies would swarm in for the kill. These sandflies did not follow hiking etiquette whereby you only attack those who are too lazy to apply insect repellent.

The egg-like stones on Blue Cliffs Beach in Fiordland (top). The driftwood had been sculptured by wind, sea and sand (below).


Using driftwood to frame a sandy portion of the beach (above) and a forest being reclaimed by the sea (below)


We moved our base north from Papatotara to Manapouri. When we arrived we were confused, what was going on? There were people swimming in the lake, sunbathing on the beaches and when we exited from the car we had to lose a couple of layers of clothing. Maybe I was a little harsh on that weather man in my last post. He probably deliberately downplayed a good forecast in fear of being abused by disgruntled winter refugees such as myself.

Still harbouring a few doubts as to how long the good weather would last, I suggested that on our first day should be a hike up to Luxmore Hut on the Kepler track. “How far is it?” I consulted my track guidebook, “18km and half of it is downhill”. “How high is it?” Now I admit that I was not really expecting this question so I hurriedly muttered “a climb of about 800 meters” adding “not much more than on Mt Taranaki”. “It will be a good test of our readiness for the Tongariro Crossing”. “Ok I’m in” was the surprising answer.

Ruth wondering when the climbing will ever end as she breaks for water before ‘sidling’ around the bluff (Kepler Track)
Made it – she agreed that it was worth the effort – Kepler Track
A hell of a hike just for a great spot to have lunch

Well the 18km turned out to be 24km (7hours) and the ascent was a pretty tough four-hour slog. Ruth started indicating that she was running out of gas but fortunately I could see on our topographical phone app that we were close to the edge of the bush-line. I coaxed her along the remaining few hundred meters trying not to show the fatigue I was feeling as well. In the end we are pleased we persevered, the views from the top were stunning and it was a great place to have a very leisurely lunch.

We had the day off yesterday only undertaking a modest bike along the Lake front and an evening walk and, as a result, today we were ready to assault the Key Summit off the Milford Road. “How far it it?” was the stock question. When I told Ruth that it was a mere five km (3 hours) and only roughly 3-400 or so meters in altitude gained (we would already over 500 at the car park), she was so enthusiastic that I started suggesting longer walks, she declined on my ‘steak knife’ offers.

You are really ‘pushing the envelope ‘expecting to get five straight days of good clear weather down here, even in a ‘drought’ year. But somehow our luck has changed and the day dawned cool and clear and with the promise of another warm afternoon. It was all spectacular, the drive and especially the walks. However, we agreed, when reviewing our photos later on in the day, that they simply do not do justice to the experience of walking in such dramatic countryside.

The mist was still hanging around the Eglinton Valley as we passed through.
One of the small tarns on the Key Summit track


Ruth is starting to look like a mountaineer.
The Cascades – well a river roaring down the mountainside into the Hollyford Valley

Even the rain forecast for tomorrow seems to have dropped off the radar. I rushed in to give Ruth the good news, “we can do the ‘Shallow Bay’ walk on the shores of Manapouri tomorrow”. “Oh (sigh) I thought it was going to rain”.

New Zealand smallest and only diving duck, Papango, entertained us in this clear little lake – lower right is it underwater. It actually stayed under the water for quite some time.


  1. How great to have such good weather – especially for this portion of the trip! You both should be commended for your willingness to take on those long upward hikes (as we walk on the flat beaches here in San Diego).


    1. Ruth thinks the flat beaches sound just right to her. After a few uphills we both agreed that we best get these out of the way while we can still manage to get up them. They are certainly not getting any easier. I have found a flat walk for us today to give the tender muscles a ‘rest’

      Liked by 1 person

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